October 3, 2009
Back on the mainland and the drive toward Halifax revealed a spectacular progression of fall colors on the roadside trees. We spent the morning in town wandering the waterfront and a lovely public garden. Halifax is a hodge podge of beautiful old architecture and boxy new buildings, not a very attractive or memorable downtown core.
Just outside of Halifax we left TCH behind and opted for the more scenic south shore road which we will follow as far as we can on our westward journey toward Yarmouth. First stop was Peggy’s Cove on St. Margaret’s Bay, the ultimate of picturesque and on this beautiful sunny day it was filled with people out enjoying the sun and the seashore. The village buildings are nestled among granite outcroppings with boulders and rocks strewn everywhere, on land, in the coves, and along the shores. Parking outside of town we walked the ½ mile into the village and around each corner new photo ops ending at the lighthouse.
In the backyard of what is now a gallery and almost unnoticed we found a 30 meter granite outcrop. At the age of 70, William deGarthe picked up his chisels and tools and as he put it began releasing the figures sleeping in the rock for 10 million years. This monumental work took six years and depicts the lives of the hardworking fishermen of his adopted home of Peggy’s Cove.
The cove richly deserves its “most picturesque” reputation.
A short distance from Peggy’s Cove, on the shore sits two granite stones one a memorial dedicated to the men, women and children of the Swiss air 111 crash in 1998. The other recognizes the local men and women who worked tirelessly in the recovery operations and who gave comfort to the family and friends of the victims.
October 4, 2009
Continuing around St. Margaret’s Bay we enter French Village and spy access to the St. Margaret’s Bay Trail, an old railroad trail that is now shared use, hike, bike, ATV, x-country skiing and snowmobiles. It was raining lightly but we decided to hop on the bikes and ride for a little exercise and to see the trail. The colors are emerging with splashes of spectacular, eye-popping color. Nice trail through mixed forest but as it began to rain harder we decided to return to the van first, a nice hot latte and piece of yummy carrot cake at the Bike and Bean, a comfortable little café and bike shop in the old railway station.
The rain continued as we followed the shore of St. Margaret’s Bay and then Mahone’s Bay to Lunenburg. It was raining too hard to stop in Mahone Bay, a lovely seaside town, but we will return tomorrow if the weather settles. The entire town was decked out for The Great Scarecrow Festival, scarecrows of all types along the road, in yards, in front of businesses and hanging from trees. For now we hunker down for the evening in Lunenburg to catch up on our photos and blog. Rain, rain go away!